A Tribute to the Queen

"Life should be stress-free, and that's what surfing is all about. It's something you do in your sleep, with your eyes closed, it's something you can embrace and be passionate about, and whatever it takes, you're gonna do it, because nothing else in the world can give you that kind of self-esteem."

-Rell Sunn   (credit to Rell Sunn educational fund)

I learned to surf when I was about 9 years old. I virtually grew up at the beaches of San Diego and Baja. Surfing gave me a connection to the Earth and to people in my life.

Learning to surf in the 90's was perfect-- the women's surf industry was exploding, much thanks to Lisa Andersen and Roxy, Quiksilver. Girls were truly finding a place of acceptance in the water.

I wanted to surf like Lisa, and Megan Abubo... Layne Beachley, Serena Brooke, Daize Shayne....and Rell Sunn. They are all incredible athletes and were my role models. I had posters and Roxy ads plastered in a giant collage on my bedroom walls. But Rell was special, she was already a legend.

These poems are part of my daydreams, and lust for travel and water.

liquid syllables
siren of sol
her tail is diamonds
that glitter in soft light
her hair is wet moss
flows in a silken rhythm
rays glisten in her azure eyes
with depths that know no end
zephyrs whisper airy secrets
in her ear
she lives an aqua vida
________________________
MANTRA: Be a water GOD*DESS
beautiful energy
take me now
in your sweet
caress
moving mountain
envelope me
rushing forward
eyes on the
light
but I feel
f*r*o*z*e*n
in time
_____________

mahalo nui loa to all my surf heroes and heroines